Captivating Kyoto

T and I have just returned from our wonderful week traveling in Japan. You may have seen my blog on Ginza, below, and we also spent a bit of time in Nagoya visiting a pen friend and touring Osaka with a delightful former student of mine. My focus for this trip, however, was on the former capital of Japan, Kyoto, a city I have hoped to visit for some time. And like all figments of imagination, my expectations of the place…were way off the mark. It was completely different from what I expected, and yet absolutely wonderful at the same time. Here’s a shot of the happy travelers on the shinkansen (bullet train) starting their way west:

My image of Kyoto was that it would be similar to the kinds of historic cities that dot Italy and much of Europe – fairly smallish with a clearly defined city center in which one finds all the cool stuff within easy walking distance. Hah!  When we reached the city, we discovered that it is a huge sprawling metropolis and that in a manner similar to Los Angeles, anything worth seeing…is some distance from anything else worth seeing (with some exceptions). So we quickly mastered the subway system (two intersecting lines forming a cross in the middle of the city) and got ready to log some serious walking mileage.

August is festival time in much of Japan, and Kyoto is no exception. Thanks to a most informative agent at the train station information booth, we learned that we had arrived on the last night of the Okazaki Promenade, “a feast of sound and stars,” in the words of the tourist brochure. In short, one six-block long stretch on Nijo Street was turned into a nighttime fairyland in honor of Tanabata, or Star Festival, a time when people write wishes and tie them to tree-like objects which are later burned to send the wishes to the heavens. It is, of course, much more interesting and complicated than that  — see Wiki at — but we just enjoyed being  part of a big beautiful community event with loads of friends and families jostling along an illuminated path on a sultry steamy summer evening. T took this shot of a young attendee meandering just ahead of us on the path:

There was a section with lights overhead that shimmered and shifted to music, a section with trees covered in wishes, and a section with a small water channel containing a gorgeous silk strip of cloth, which was about four feet wide by 20 feet long and rippled over rocks and under water while being illuminated by carefully placed spot lights:

The next day we hit the tourist trail with as much enthusiasm as the humidity would allow. Our focus was the Higashiyama area in the eastern foothills of the city where a number of the city’s treasures are conveniently sprinkled along a walking path. This next shot is at the Yasaka Shrine, originated in the seventh century CE and one of the most famous shrines in Kyoto  where, as T noted, we could actually see people engaged in their spiritual practice (unlike most of the religious sites in Europe where only tourists fill the aisles of churches and cathedrals):

The walking path we planned to follow would have been utterly delightful…had not a few thousand other people decided to walk it at the same time. In fairness, we planned this trip because it followed the end of my teaching contract period, but it managed to overlap the etremely popular Obon Festival in Japan when many people have time off from work and travel to see family for some kind of ancestor worship Most, it appeared, came right here:

Fortunately, the madding crowd (always polite and totally nonthreatening in this part of the world) provided welcome glimpses into the lives and passions of others:

…as well as provided diversions with specific merit-earning recommendations:

Well loved

Not surprisingly the teeming holiday hordes were charming only for so long, and in order to restore some sanity we had the recommendation of my student Dr. I to head off the walking street and visit the Kodai-ji Temple. This turned out to be, for me at least, one of the highlights of the whole visit. Formally known as Kodaijusho-zenji Temple, this quiet piece of landscape was established in 1605 by the noblewoman Kita-no-Mandokoro in honor of her late husband, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Japan’s second great “unifier” (1536-98). The complex itself is a a Zen temple and hence it is far less decorated than many of the other temples in Kyoto and Japan; the structures are connected by a meandering path and is set in a beautiful park that is scrupulously maintained. The overall impression is of great peace and harmony, giving both T and myself perhaps the most serene moments of the last year or so.

Nearby we stumbled across the Ryozen Kannon, “a monument to the second world war’s unknown soldier erected to the memory of more than forty-eight thousand foreign soldiers who perished on Japanese territory or on territory under Japanese military control.” This complex includes a shrine, a mausoleum, and a Buddhist “Homa” Hall. Looming over all is a 80-foot high concrete statue of the compassionate Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara (aka Kannon). This piece in addition specifically commemorates the Japanese “who sacrificed them-selves in the last war and for the establishment of a peaceful Japan.” T and I were touched by the sentiment (particularly at this moment in history) and added our incense and hopeful thoughts to the array:

But by this time, the heat and history had caught up with us and we decided to head back and regroup. Before we could take our leave of this utterly lovely area (far too soon and with far more to be discovered on another trip, hopefully), T caught this view of a little geisha who had decided she also had had enough of being polite and pictured for the day:

You can dress them up but…

…and happily before we melted down completely ourselves, we escaped to the cooling respite of our air-conditioned accommodations for a little hydrated R&R.

Back in Italy now for a bit, then the plan is to Berlin for the fall. Thanks for joining me on these adventures.

Posted in Travel - Japan | Tagged | 3 Comments

Glimpses of Ginza

I know the world’s a scary place just now and I can hardly put into words my feelings about recent events in Charlottesville, but at the same time, I’m in Japan and I can’t do much about any of it except to light candles at temples and say prayers that sanity and peace return to the parts of the planet that need them most. If the world goes to hell, my current attitude is “Carpe diem and pass the sushi.”

So Wednesday last I left IUJ and traveled to Tokyo to meet up with T and our good friend K for a little fun and frolic and a quick trip to Nagoya to visit with a Japanese pen acquaintance there. On the way, we spent a lovely day or so exploring some interesting corners of the Ginza area of Tokyo, where K has his pen shop. Ginza, as you may know, is home to the “Rodeo Drive” of Tokyo, the biggest baddest department stores you’ve ever seen and remarkably lavish storefronts of nearly all the world’s luxury brands. But as an urban landscape, even at real estate rates of nearly one billion yen per square meter (!!), it doesn’t win any beauty contests with me, at least from the outside:

But this is where it gets interesting. Like much of Japan, the good stuff is hidden, a little off the beaten path, a bit subtle and indirect. K took us to one of those amazing department stores (forgot to ask which one) that has installed a branch of the Tsutaya Book Shop on its upper floor, complete with a very small, very exclusive, very tasteful stationery department. Since all three of us are pen and paper nuts, it was a must-see. On the way up, this cheery summer display:

Up, up and away…

Once inside the “bookstore,” folks can browse the merchandise or just settle in and make the scene in this most attractive cafe:

We, of course, made a beeline for the pens and paper section (all gorgeous and WAY over-priced, particularly for us who have connections and can get this stuff for less), but I loved this scene of one of the uniformed customer service employees helping a couple geisha girls pick out the perfect gift:

“May I take your order, please?”

I was particularly taken with a product I had simply never seen anywhere before – and can’t even say now exactly how it works or who might use it. Solar paper – who knew?

One of our target stops, alas, was closed, but the outdoor signage gave me a chance to snap a shot of T on the left and K on the right, my two Musketeers:

We started looking around for lunch, but this one place seemed to offer menu items that were simply WAY too fresh for my consideration:

…and since life is uncertain at the moment, we decided to ‘eat dessert first.’ Here’s a shot of a place one simply should not miss in this neck of the woods – the Kit Kat flagship store and “Chocolatory.” Now, in the US, Kitkat is just another boring mass-market drug-store brand Nestle milk chocolate square, but in Japan, it’s WHOLE other story. Wiki tells us “There have been more than 300 limited-edition seasonal and regional flavors of Kit Kats produced in Japan since 2000. Nestle, which operates the Kit Kat brand in Japan, reports that the brand overtook Meiji Chocolate as the top-selling confection in Japan from 2012 to 2014….The product’s name as the coincidental cognate Kitto Kattsu (きっと勝つ), translated as “You will surely win” … could be mailed as a good luck charm for students ahead of university exams.”

Here’s a shot of the current limited editions; I am ashamed to admit I tumbled for a small box of the pistachio-grapefruit selection, which was tasty but a bit overpriced:

Searching for luck in all the wrong places…

…and that odd creature in the lower left hand corner is actually a two-foot high caged, er, tower of a number of the different flavors…

Upstairs, there is a charming cafe with some of the most beautiful pastries I have seen in a long time. If you know me at all, you know I’m not much of a foodie, I certainly don’t spend a lot of time photographing my dinners AND I’m not usually seduced by baker’s wares, but that day was an exception and I both documented AND quickly inhaled one of these beauties:

Sic transit gloria mundi

…then off we ran to the train station for a smooth shinkansen (bullet train) ride to Nagoya and thence Kyoto. Stay tuned for more snippets from this trip, unless the Stooge Duo of DT and KJU decided to blow us to Kingdom Come. Trust that I would vaporize with joy in my heart.

Posted in Travel - Japan | Tagged | 3 Comments

IUJ interlude

It’s my last weekend teaching English in the intensive immersion program at the International University of Japan and I’m scrambling to complete my grade reports, finish last-minute shopping, clean my flat, eat my food, wash my clothes, and tender my farewells before another lovely summer term here in the hinterlands of Niigata Prefecture is “in the can,” as I say. But before I head to the next adventure (more about that in a minute), I wanted to share a few pictures about this summer and the wonderful students and fellow faculty who have populated it.

First up is a shot of the bucolic countryside that surrounds our campus. We are near Mt. Hakkai and an associated range of the Japanese “Alps” that even in the heat and humidity always manages to look serene and cool:

The result of all this beautiful nature is….wildlife! While bears and strange blond monkeys are reputed to live high in the hills (and the monkeys apparently enjoy the local hot springs in the winter months), I haven’t seen much besides hawks, crows, little lizards and frogs, and lots and lots of bugs. The cicadas are throbbing as I write this (look away, J), and the campus often yields creature species I simply haven’t ever laid eyes on before. Here’s one critter that greeted me as I headed into the cafeteria for lunch last week:

It’s only about three inches in length (including those “antlers”) but still a bit of a surprise.

In addition to tropical weather, summer in this part of the world is the time for some of Japan’s best…watermelon. These come in two styles. There are Type A melons, absolute geometric perfection, and they go for a king’s ransom (perfection in Japan is a high virtue). And then there are the Type B melons, slightly misshapen, perhaps a microscopic nick or pit here or there. They run for about USD 6-10 a head. And finally, if you happen to walk down the right rutted path at the right time of day and find a friendly farmer, they might be…free. Here are some charming prospects in a local farmer’s market:

Suica…one of my very few Japanese words

…and even more fun, a shot of one of the watermelon feeds that happens intermittently at IUJ when one of the faculty stumbles across a big one at a reasonable price. Chilled and sliced on a steamy afternoon….mmmm…nothing better…

I’ve spoken about this before, but I need to give a shout out to my students this summer and the last two summers, amazing young men and women from developing countries —  many of whom leave jobs and families and even small children — who come to study with us for the summer and then go on to master’s programs at graduate schools in Tokyo. These young professionals are in the banking and financial services sector and are chosen by the International Monetary Fund for mid-career fellowships. As I mentioned when I posted this picture on Facebook, if anyone is going to save the world, it’s going to be these folks, individuals tasked with try to adjust entire sections of a country’s economy in order to create more opportunities for their compatriots And yet, as individuals, they are just wonderful human beings – smart, funny, compassionate, engaged, and basically a teacher’s dream. The group below hails from Sri Lanka, Cambodia, Uzbekistan, the Kyrgyz Republic, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia, Mongolia, and Myanmar:

Fortunately, life isn’t all teaching…some faculty are generous enough to offer extra activities to get out out and about. For the last three years, I’ve shocked myself by joining a dance empowerment/quasi “Zumba” class offered by a fellow faculty member who is so gifted…she gets me to jump around and sweat in the heat. Here’s a shot of some of the intrepid students and teachers who don’t mind making utter fools of themselves to get the endorphins flowing:

Also on the non-academic side of life, this year I did something new. Normally, the oral communications teachers (I am “Text Skills,” doncha know?) dress in traditional Japanese costumes for one of the summer social events, but this year I was convinced to join in as well (I didn’t think there would be anything…long enough for me). So thanks to a lovely student who loaned some of us her mother and grandmother’s yukatas (summer cotton kimonos), here I am with another faculty member being suited up in full glory:

“Sam and Janet evening”

Together with my fellow faculty colleagues, we make a charming intercultural array. Even the instructors are diverse, hailing from England, the US, Canada, and Australia. One was born in Uganda, another in Spain, and a third has a Filipino background. So we truly are “international.”

But of course we can’t keep this level of control and sobriety…for very long. The venue for this particular even happens to be a brewery…and we were treated well to a lovely buffet and a lavish amount of the local swill. The resulting shot strips away the masks of propriety:

…but at least I managed to avoid the karaoke this year…

I leave here this coming Wednesday and head to Tokyo, where (wonder of wonders) T will join me for a week of excursion around Japan. The goal is to spend some time in with some friends here and there and then enjoy a long weekend in Kyoto, the former capital of Japan and home to Buddhist temples, imperial palaces, and traditional geishas. I’ll keep you posted. In the meantime, thanks for reading, and Kampai!

Posted in Teaching in Japan | 4 Comments

Summer Daze update…

It’s been a while since I’ve chimed in, due to a lot of activity but not a lot of stories to tell, per se. It’s been a lovely couple of months in Italy, interspersed with visits from foreign friends, the last two pen shows of the spring in Rome and Torino and other pen-related travel, a busy end to my consulting contract with the English Language Fellow Program, dinners with various friends and relations, some serious spring cleaning, and of course the final bits and pieces of my adventure to get legal status in Italy. The good news: yes, I am in possession of the Permesso! More in a bit. But here are a few shots to share, along with the news that I will be headed back to Japan on Monday the 3rd for my 3rd summer teaching at the International University of Japan.

As general background, here’s a panoramic shot taken from a nearby hill town, the one where T likes to go and shop. T’s house is slightly to the left of the scene, about 10 kilometers away or so.

Absolutely stunning, no question. But if there’s a fly in the ointment (isn’t there always?) it’s that this part of Italy, heck, most of Italy, is pretty darn sunny in the summer *and I am increasingly allergic to lots of sunshine.* I just learned it has a name: photodermatitis (or maybe sun poisoning?). So after some fairly bold adventuring and getting pretty red and itchy, I have had to start staying a bit more in the shade, not the easiest task around here. Fortunately, T had a great little project for me to help him with that didn’t need a lot of sunshine, and that was cleaning up the attic and garage. Here’s a shot of the dumpster we filled to the brim, along with the newly tidied front of the house:

But you know how it is with big clean-up projects – the best of intentions, sudden spurts of Herculean activity, and then the inevitable postprandial letdown:

While the cats are snoozing in the late afternoons, T and I amuse ourselves most days with an adult beverage and a check of the day’s news:

…and, before long, if we’re lucky, a view of one of Italy’s spectacular summer sunsets:

But, as promised above, the big news is the achievement of legal status. Now, while T and I both knew that the ultimate outcome would be favorable and that I, as an American and the wife of an EU citizen, had the process better than *just about anyone else,* it didn’t mean that there wasn’t plenty of pit-of-the-stomach anxiety and nail-biting wait time to go around.  So, in recap, after a dozen or so trips to various municipal offices literally all over the local landscape and lasting nearly 50 days, my quest for legitimacy ended (successfully) here:

The sign on the door basically directs people leftward, to the waiting room, so it wasn’t entirely clear to us that this was the place…that would actually hand me the keys to the kingdom, as it were – permission to live in Italy for five years, then an indefinite extension, assuming I stay out of trouble. I am still (legally) not supposed to spend more than 90 out every 180 days in the rest of Schengen Europe, but… with no border control (aside from airports), it’s going to be hard for me or anyone else for that matter to keep close tabs of my movements. So. Mission accomplished. I’m relieved, happy, and incredibly grateful to the linguistic and cultural skills of my spouse as well as his sheer dogged persistence and unfailing good humor throughout this entire process. Here’s proof positive that they can’t come for me in the middle of the night (it’s the one on the left):

Ta DA!

…and then, being the good little Continentals that we are, we celebrated with a cappuccino and a sweet roll at Caffe Vittorio, just literally around the corner from the nondescript door pictured above:

La dolce vita

So…next step, the long flight back to Tokyo and thence to IUJ. You’ve read about the place a couple summers now, so I may not have a whole lot to add this time, but rest assured I’ll keep you posted on any interesting adventures that might unfold there and then. Be thee well.

Posted in Italy | 9 Comments

Un Bacio di Bari (A Kiss from Bari)

Good friends G and V had been encouraging us to come visit them in Bari, and when M from Poland said she was taking a short vacation there this past weekend, T and I decided we had to dash down for the weekend. And I’m so glad we did. Bari is an example of one of those places that had only ever been at the far end of my radar, solely in connection with a friend from graduate days who had been born there. Now, along with Belfast, Bruges, and Berlin, it has turned into one of the “B” cities that has unexpectedly both delighted and inspired me to return as soon as possible.

Bari, located at the top of the heel of Italy in the region known as Puglia, is a harbor city dating from Greek and Roman times. Although briefly part of an emirate, for most of its history it was the subject of multiple tugs of wars between various Italian factions, Lombards, the Holy Roman Empire, Byzantium, and goodness knows who else. It grew into regional prominence under the unlikely patronage of Napoleon’s brother-in-law, Joachim Murat, Prince of Naples, who expanded the city greatly in the 19th century, appending a large rational French urban grid to the small ancient city on the harbor. Mussolini added his own distinctive mark in the early 20th century with a number of oversized structures along the waterfront. Today Bari is a charming, vibrant, and surprisingly un-touristy city with lots of cultural and shopping options.

In Pescara, our closest transportation hub, T and I hopped on the Freccia Bianca, the fast train that flies up and down Italy’s Adriatic coastline. It took us just under three hours to cover the 300+ kilometers and dropped us gently at Bari’s central station, leading me to think I was somewhere in France (probably the influence of Murat):

What we hadn’t factored into our plans – but which managed to work out just fine for us – was that the finance ministers of the G-7 had also planned to be in town the exact same weekend:

It’s easy to spot economists – they all dress in identical versions of navy suits and white or light blue shirts, that weekend  sporting huge yellow badges, and surrounded by various forms of security forces. What was equally easy to spot was the massive official police presence all over town, blocking access to some of the tourist sites (the castle, in particular, where the meetings where held and part of the corniche along the sea.) I have rarely felt so safe…so although I couldn’t get any closer, here’s a shot of the Castello Normanno-Svevo, built around 1132 by the Norman/Sicilian King Roger II, complete with a few dozen of the local constabulary:

Look but don’t touch…

As part of the security measures, a number of the main streets were completely blocked off to vehicular traffic, lending a somewhat carnival air to the proceedings (although the actual number of pedestrians was radically reduced as a consequence). So on these lovely warm spring days and evenings, it felt as if we had the city completely to ourselves. Here is a shot of a main square with decorations from a recent festival celebrating the patron saint of the city, San Nicola, a fourth-century wonder-working churchman who later became transformed into our Santa Claus:

No visit to Bari is complete without a long lovely ramble through Bari Vecchia, the labryrinthian historic center of the ancient city recently rehabilitated from the ravages of urban decay and crime. Our quick visit didn’t allow me one of my favorite pastimes in a new city, that being a visit to the city museum. But as small consolation, I took a shot of its location in the entrance to the old town, with a quick promise to return as soon as possible:

I’ll be back

The genius of these old cities is, of course, that the winding alleys block both the wind and rain of the winter as well as the heat and blazing sun of the summer, particularly in a place like Bari that is plagued by precepitation mixed with dust blown up from the Sahara across the Mediterranean. The buildings remain temperate and protected nearly year-round. One does wonder, however, precisely how, ahem, sanitation was managed in days gone by; happily this is an issue that has been resolved in the here and now. Around a far corner, we stumbled onto…the remains of a Roman temple, today just standing guard over recent sanitation of the laundry variety:

A nearby inscription reads something along the lines of: “Under the patronage of the Comune, these monumental remnants of the ancient Bari buried forgotten for many centuries now again see the light.” October the (chiseled away) 1939 (chiseled away – year 17) of the era (chiseled away – Fascist) of the newborn Roman Empire.” (Language apparently redacted by an anonymous civic volunteer.) And that’s all she wrote.

But lest you think the Bari Vecchia is all work and no play, here’s a shot of a festive residence along the Le Vecchie Mura, the massive and pedestrian wall that separates the old town from the water and harbors on each side of it:

…and a few local ragazzi enjoying the afternoon:

One last view of boats in front of what I think I remember as the customs house, one of the reminders of Uncle Benito’s reign:

As you might imagine, all this hoofing, even without the press of crowds, can bring about a mighty hunger and thirst. One of southern Italy’s unique gastronomic offerings is Taralli, small (savory) or large (sweet) bread circles. They’re made of flour, white wine, olive oil, and salt, but no yeast, and oven baked:

Bet you can’t eat just one…

…and of course we did not. In addition to these nearly addictive munchies, G & V prepared a wonderful lunch for us and some other lucky friends. The meal included a wonderful pasta and some fantastic cheeses, along with the ubiquitous red and white wine but complemented particularly by G’s mother’s amazing Limoncello and some other lethal homemade liquors. Here’s a shot of the table after we had had our fill. T looks particularly satisfied…

…so there you have it…a wonderful get-away that kept me happily distracted for a couple days before our visit to the police the following Monday to submit the paperwork for my Permesso. But I have fallen in love, and T knows he’s in for at least one more visit to Bari before too long….I have to see the castle and the museum and walk again along the long lovely wall along the sea…

Posted in Italy, Uncategorized | Tagged | 5 Comments

Permesso di Soggiorno 2

  • Good News Department: Paperwork submitted. Fingerprints taken, data entered into computer before my eyes. Receipt for paperwork received (proving I am trying to become legal in Italy), which, combined with my passport and copy of our marriage certificate that should probably be adhered to my body, will keep me from being hauled off and placed in detention.
  • Patience Still Required Department: Process to actually *receive* Permesso may take weeks or months. Clarification: I am more or less free to move *around Italy* once T and I go and chat with the local police department and tell them what our plans are. Whew. I was under the impression I would have to stay tethered to four walls. Not true. Happy me.
Posted in Uncategorized | 3 Comments

Permesso di Soggiorno 1

Now that I have entered into a state of international marital bliss (see previous post), there is, as you might expect, a price to be paid. And that price at the moment is trying to gain legal status to stay with my spouse in Italy and also to be able to travel about the European continent without fearing that I overstep overlapping and/or conflicting immigration regulations with dire consequences. We knew this day was coming; things are probably going as well as possible under the circumstances, but at the same time, I now have a much larger and lived appreciation for the anxiety and downright blood-chilling fear that must haunt the days and nights of millions of otherwise innocent immigrants and refugees who are trying to live a better life in places outside their own borders and must interface, as I am currently doing, with loads of bureaucratic administrative units, usually doing so, as I am currently doing, in a language not their own.

Shortly after our marriage, T called his locale commune (his township or local municipality) to inform them of a change in dependent status and ask for the next steps. In typical charming Italian fashion, he was offered the warmest wishes of congratulations and told it was merely a simple matter of going to the questura (police station) in a nearby town and applying for my permesso di soggiorno, a permission to reside in Italy for a period greater than three months, the renewable document required of all non-EU citizens who wish to live in Italy. I had a hunch that it would be slightly more complicated than that, and indeed it is proving to be so, even though we have not yet gotten any hint that we won’t ultimately be successful, and that marriage is probably the fastest route in any case to obtain this document. But as inspiration for you to read this post and for me to not lose heart, here’s a shot of one of the villages not far from T’s home:

Day 1

  • Travel 45 minutes over twisting and rutted mountain roads. Go to questura. Chat with lovely officer at the counter. Be offered a long photocopied list of 35 requirements. When stomach stops sinking, notice that she has only checked nine of them and written in two additional for us to provide. These include: a copy of T’s permesso; our marriage certificate (translated into Italian; it is mercifully brief); a full copy of my passport; three separate confirmations of our identity and residence; a copy of my Italian tax ID; certification from T’s accountant that he has sufficient sums to provide for me; four photos; and of course an odd amount of tax to be provided in the forms of stamps. None of these things are, of course, available in the questura.
  • Head over to the Palace of Justice, thankfully in the same town. Get lost amid the soothing light blue walls of the building and find a kind security guard who takes us up to where we need to go. Check with the administrative judge and learn that indeed our five-language marriage certificate is not sufficient and that an Italian translation is required. The judge decides T’s language skills are sufficient and immediately deputizes him to do the translation. We take note of the slightly pornographic art on the walls of the judge’s office and beat a hasty departure.

    Justice is served

  • Drive to another village for a copy of T’s permesso. Although he already holds a carta d’identità (which requires the permesso), this is just how it has to be. But not so fast. All of the required offices are open either 8:30-12:30 or 9:30-12:30 and most do not open in the afternoon. Thankfully this one does (two days a week), but we have arrived at 12:15 and are charmingly turned away and asked to return later in the afternoon with the suggestion that we buy some tax stamps in the meantime. We decide to have a long lunch. Then we head to the tobacco shop where the stamps are sold:
  • Not so fast…

  • Ah. By now it’s 3:15 and we’re a little antsy, but clearly there’s nothing to be done until the shop opens at 4:00 pm. A local bistro offers a lovely glass of local white and some nice conversation with the bar keep. At 4:00 we buy our stamps and head back to the office for T’s permesso. Mission accomplished!
  • Head home, fill out the three self-certified identity and address forms, make a pile of photocopies, translate the marriage certificate, and congratulate ourselves on our initial foray.
  • Day 2
  • Head back to the Palace of Justice (again a 45-minute drive along twisty and rutted mountain roads). Return to the office of the administrative judge with the interesting taste in art. With great flourish, he pulls out some forms, fills them out carefully by hand, staples them all together, stamps the margins in about four or different five places, and wishes us well, then pointing us in the direction of the next office where we will be assigned a case number.
  • At the case number office, watch in utter amazement as our certificate is registered by hand with pen in an oversized registry volume that looks a good bit like the ones pictured below:
  • Celebrate this step with a cappuccino next door.
  • Next, off to a different building in the same town for my codice fiscale, my Italian tax ID. At this moment, I’m certainly happy to pay tax to just about any government except my own, so this is fine by me. Here, at least, the 21st century seems to be in evidence:
  • This step was rapido. ‘Nuff said.
  • At this point, since we were nearly finished collecting the paperwork and even though it was Tuesday and we weren’t supposed to turn it in until Friday, we decide to have another chat with the folks at the questura (police station) and check for any necessary invoices or tax stamps.
  • Happy to see us, lovely police officer offers us an appointment for May 22nd (this is May 9th). Seeing the instant dismay on our faces, she revises this suggestion for May 15th.
  • All of a sudden a long conversation breaks in rapid Italian between the female officer, her boss (a male officer) and T, all articulating and gesticulating in a manner and speed far beyond my somewhat anxious nonverbal interpretative abilities at the moment. Several hair-raising moments transpire in which both officers were shaking their heads and waving their index fingers back and forth in a clear “Definitely not!” message. Naturally, assuming the worst, I take this to mean that someone was coming imminently to restrain me and place me in local detention. Fortunately, this is not the case, and T hastens to assure me that the “Definitely not!” was in response to his concern that I would have to leave Italy during the time my permesso was being processed. “But you’re married!”
  • Shaken but not stirred, we leave the questura and head 45 minutes up twisty and rutted mountain roads to T’s shopping village of G and the office of his accountant, fortunately arriving at 11:45 am before the mandatory 12:30 shutdown.
  • Sit patiently and wait 45 minutes for the accountant to write a long and detailed affirmation that the income tax documentation he is providing in support of our application for permesso is indeed valid and current, all the while counting the number of Virgin Marys that adore his office. (As a feminist aside, I am fascinated that no one thinks to ask *me* if I have financial resources for my own support. But this is rural Italy; my ability to generate income is not even considered. The fancy restaurant in town still gives ladies the menu without prices…)
  • Leave accountant’s office famished and flattened…head to lunch, proud as punch that the paperwork is at last completed and make plans to head out of town this weekend because….once we submit the paperwork on Monday, *I am expected to be physically present in T’s home pretty much continuously until the carabinieri make their unannounced visit to confirm my marital status sometime in the next….weeks….*
  • As compensation, though, here’s a view of the landscape around T’s home…even I, non-nature-lover that I am, must admit this is a lovely sight:
  • I will keep you posted on this most interesting chapter of my journey…in the meantime, if you have any suggestions for amusing and time-consuming online games or puzzles, please send them my way. I am sustained by my charming and supportive spouse as well as the hope that I get to see more of the local flora and fauna. Have I told you about the wild boar that infest the neighborhood? Stay tuned.
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